holley sniper efi iac problems

Hot start it most of the time wont start unless I give it a little throttle. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. Once we recognize that, the next step is to narrow down all possible sources of additional air until we discover the cause.Start by keeping an eye on your IAC number. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. First thing I would check Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. Take it a step at a time. Holley Sniper EFI Your closed loop compensation is adding a full 50% fuel. Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. I have verified that there are no vacuum leaks, not to mention the car runs to good to have a vacuum leak bad enough to make this noise. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. What you are experiencing is rather common. Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. On startup- cold or hot, I get a 2 second high idle of about 1500 RPM before normal set idle of 750 RPM happens. any ideas? back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get That's what you're seeing. Thank you for your input. That is not the way to go. If you do find you have RFI issues then I've written an article on solving RFI problems. Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. How to replace the IAC in the Holley Super Sniper. - YouTube Two things to keep in mind as you do that. Some suggestions: i did have the same problem.try lengthening the lever of the throttle.meaning the length from the center of the throttle to the point where you attach your cable or your rod from the peddle. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. Any idea's? If you haven't installed a This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. In that case, and if you have an EGR valve, I might be suspicious of something going on there. So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. Short drives is fine then it'll Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. The team at Holley has designed the perfect solution for your problems. But they are 100% committed to your satisfaction. There are six different acceleration enrichment tables that you can tweak and that may be the way to go. Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. By the way, this is a new installation on a 69 Camaro, stock 350, dual sync, etc. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. Not good.There isn't set solution here that works for all engines. It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. What could be the cause? My guess is a faulty IAC since it is intermittent and I have not done any setup changes. Thanks in advance for any advice. If the TPS is 1% or below then the ECU is in control--2% or greater and the ECU thinks you've got it under control. I thought 12.0 was leaner at idle, but I figured out I was wrong.lol. datsun sniper efi Holley RetroBright This 1974 Datsun 620 Bulletside Cruises With The Help Of Sniper EFI Bradley Iger 01/13/2023 features Latest News sweepstakes 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes Gen III Hemi Enter To Win Holley's 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes For Your Chance To Win A 600+ Horsepower 392 Stroker! If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. You can manually set it 57 after you run the Wizard if required. When I turn it off and try to restart it just cranks. I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. Doesn't want to start, runs like crap. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. That is the first thing you must find. Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. when things aren't working and this provides just that. I would disregard any correlation between idle control between the Stock and Street/Strip setups. Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. Do you have any clue? What I would recommend is getting somewhere that you can spend a significant amount of time doing starts. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? normal city driving, I no longer have other problems I had with the original Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. Hello. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? To finish, I rather tightly twisted the TPS signal and ground wires all the way from the controller to the Sniper TPS and very carefully routed them away from sources of RFI. It reads 0 at idle and when I accelerate it goes up to 30 and makes a loud sucking sound that seems to be holding the car back. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. Enjoy your Sniper! I would start by removing the progressive linkage. There's a procedure there I can share with you if you'd like.. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. I recently install a sniper efi. So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) Glad to hear that things are working well! So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! I had a customer who struggled to understand that. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. $107.95. Solving RF Interference Issues in Sniper Installations - EFISystemPro.com Thanks! I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Master Kit - Black Ceramic Finish Thank you. After pumping the pedal a few times at different times it dropped to zero and started to work. Sniper EFI - Holley Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. If no air is passing (and the idle doesn't drop) then your IAC is working. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. This can cause the engine to run rough and may even lead to engine damage. Add To Cart. If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. After a complete cool down it will do the same thing. When the idle speed screw is turned all the way out there should be just enough room between the bore and the blade to catch your fingernail. At 0% it shouldn't be sucking any air through that port, correct? I keep doing that with the same result. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! 1. Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. Hang in there--you can do it. Don't be surprised if one or the other is slightly open. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? All times are GMT-6. It could be a couple of things. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. :-). Do I have to hook up sniper ac wire to relay or should iac pick up idle? I think you'll be all set! If i set the idle to 750, the only way i can get it there is to turn the idle screw all the way out but then its at 0 iac. If I adjust idle screw out to get the tps to zero or even 1% the engine will not idle. Suddenly, the engine accelerates alone, hears a great deal of air being sucked in, I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. There is no sense proceeding until your TPS is at zero at key-on. As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. Holley Sniper review - The good, the bad, and learn from my - StangNet But get that fuel system fixed before going any further. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at Let Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. Find a lower price anywhere and we'll beat it by 5%! It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. Thank you for any advice. )If you rule out a fuel supply issue then we're going to have to gather a few more clues. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Good luck! I' m going to put the 3 rd new pump this coming friday. Should i adjust idle screw with the fans already on?



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